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Post by Frustrated on Oct 24, 2022 17:42:14 GMT
I have a machine with almost 23,000 hours temp and cond constantly up and down. several things have been done by others and i am here trying to figure out what is up with it.
will stabilize for a minute or 2 then right back to up and down
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Post by dave74 on Oct 24, 2022 18:36:19 GMT
Do you know if the balance chamber membranes have been replaced? I would suggest doing the leak test.
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bess
Junior Member
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Post by bess on Oct 25, 2022 17:44:11 GMT
Verify NTC-2, NTC-3, NTC-44, Heater Bar, and Triac are good.
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Post by dave74 on Oct 25, 2022 21:43:35 GMT
I think Bess may be more on the right track than I was. You need to fix the temperature problem first. If you have a flow error, the heater will shut off.
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Post by jaretac on Oct 27, 2022 12:33:09 GMT
I think Bess may be more on the right track than I was. You need to fix the temperature problem first. If you have a flow error, the heater will shut off. I know what you are saying and it is what the troubleshooting book would say, but I would probably start with your idea. As long as you rebuild the BC in place (don't disconnect the wires or hoses), it doesn't take long and it is cheep. With that many hours, if it hasn't gone bad it will sooner than later. If it doesn't fix it you're not out much and can circle back to the temp which will likely take longer and be more expensive. |
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Post by MicroTone on Oct 28, 2022 19:03:09 GMT
A fried pump head can give you similar symptoms. Check your pressures if you haven't already.
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phillipashleyludlow
Full Member
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Posts: 148
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Post by phillipashleyludlow on Oct 28, 2022 21:17:15 GMT
id test the b/c just for surity, but otherwise go through the "hydro flow order of operations" ( leaks, water, flow error, temp) on a side note, iv swapped quite a few b/c's this year that had similar symptoms.. so there's that.  |
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bess
Junior Member
Posts: 59
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Post by bess on Oct 29, 2022 20:32:34 GMT
Order of Troubleshooting:
1) Is it electronic (top) or hydraulic (bottom)
Is it a cable issue or board issue? i.e. the actuator-test board is causing intermittent operation of the inlet water valve
Is there corrosion underneath the distribution cover of the hydraulic compartment causing intermittent or open connections
1) Water alarms - verify incoming water. NO water will shut off the heater to avoid damaging the hydroblock.
2) Verify flow - good water pressures and no flow alarms present. Heater rod has a higher duty cycle with higher flow rates - more pulses at 800 flow than 300.
3) Verify NTC-2, NTC-3, NTC-44, heater bar, triac, and power control board ****these are the quickest and easiest to verify despite being at the bottom per the troubleshooting guide. If you attended official Fresenius training then you received the resistors for doing the monitor temp cals. Those resistors are a valuable troubleshooting tool If you know, you know...
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Post by dave74 on Oct 30, 2022 1:02:39 GMT
I used to follow an automotive repair channel on YouTube. It was similar to this forum in that people would submit problems that they were having with their cars and ask the host what he thought the cause of the problem might be. I liked the way the host troubleshot problems. He started out with things someone could quickly and easily check. If those checks didn't reveal the cause of the problem, he would begin more in depth troubleshooting.
I think many of us troubleshoot the same way.
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Post by jaretac on Oct 31, 2022 3:57:48 GMT
I used to follow an automotive repair channel on YouTube. It was similar to this forum in that people would submit problems that they were having with their cars and ask the host what he thought the cause of the problem might be. I liked the way the host troubleshot problems. He started out with things someone could quickly and easily check. If those checks didn't reveal the cause of the problem, he would begin more in depth troubleshooting. I think many of us troubleshoot the same way. I like the troubleshooting manual and encourage all to use it, but it is not the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to get A to B. A lot of that is experience and finding out that 99.9% what it’s not. Also there are giveme repairs that are both cheep and frequent and replacing those will save maintenance down the road. All this comes with experience though and to get that experience you need to follow the troubleshooting manual and put in the time. |
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Post by Sunshine on Nov 14, 2022 16:52:55 GMT
curious could it be a board? if so which one controls the temp/calibration for temp?
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Post by BIOMED 304 on Nov 21, 2022 18:30:04 GMT
If its fluctuating I would definitely lean towards bc membranes.
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bess
Junior Member
Posts: 59
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Post by bess on Nov 21, 2022 23:16:29 GMT
If the heater is doing a crazy ramp up and down verify that the triac inside the power supply is still good.
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