kyle
New Member
Posts: 39
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Post by kyle on Jan 11, 2024 21:28:38 GMT
I have a T-machine with 11k hrs failing negative flow on. Already replaced brushes on deaeration and flow, replaced pressure relief valve and loading pressure valve, replaced springs on uf, bicarb, and acid pumps, and replaced hansen o-rings. Still getting fail negative flow on. Also, I noticed that after testing, the conductivity shoots up to 16.5. Thanks!
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kyle
New Member
Posts: 39
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Post by kyle on Jan 11, 2024 21:33:19 GMT
I have a T-machine with 11k hrs failing negative flow on. Already replaced brushes on deaeration and flow, replaced pressure relief valve and loading pressure valve, replaced springs on uf, bicarb, and acid pumps, and replaced hansen o-rings. Still getting fail negative flow on. Also, I noticed that after testing, the conductivity shoots up to 16.5. Thanks! Also after repeating pressure test, fail negative stabilize is the issue but it doesnt say fail negative flow on. |
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Post by somewhere on Jan 12, 2024 0:27:51 GMT
try air separator.
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stuff
Full Member
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Posts: 230
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Post by stuff on Jan 12, 2024 14:12:40 GMT
When there is an issue with pressure test, i use the "old school"(as i am told) method.
1. Get your machine up and set to run the pressure test, or be ready to do some observations when doing both tests.
2. When conductivity test ends and negative pressure test starts you want to observe your home screen
3. watch your tmp, the first part of the test will attempt to get your machine to -250ish(get neg tmp), if it does not then there is a motor/wet end/flow/pressure transducer issue
4. the next step is Test: Neg flow on, watch your tmp, does it drop 30 or more? if yes, then this is a leak sucking into the tubing, i hate these with a passion
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pacnw
Full Member
Posts: 187
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Post by pacnw on Jan 12, 2024 15:04:16 GMT
typically the fail negative stabilize error is caused by;
1) hanson hose ORings
2) loose UF sample hose(not tightened to the front of the machine)
3) could be any of the hoses coming off the Air Separator(zip tie them all)
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Post by dave74 on Jan 13, 2024 3:19:56 GMT
If I am looking for a leak, I will sometimes put the machine into heat disinfect. The hot water sometimes make the leak easier to spot. I take a paper towel and touch likely leak points. If the towel has a water spot, I have found the leak.
Then there are the induced air leak tests and the induced positive pressure tests. They start on page 534 of the troubleshooting guide. If you don't have one, invest in a high quality flashlight that you can use to spot air or water leaks.
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kyle
New Member
Posts: 39
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Post by kyle on Jan 16, 2024 18:42:02 GMT
When there is an issue with pressure test, i use the "old school"(as i am told) method. 1. Get your machine up and set to run the pressure test, or be ready to do some observations when doing both tests. 2. When conductivity test ends and negative pressure test starts you want to observe your home screen 3. watch your tmp, the first part of the test will attempt to get your machine to -250ish(get neg tmp), if it does not then there is a motor/wet end/flow/pressure transducer issue 4. the next step is Test: Neg flow on, watch your tmp, does it drop 30 or more? if yes, then this is a leak sucking into the tubing, i hate these with a passion Hello, what do you mean when u said leak sucking into tubing? a tubing that is not secured? |
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kyle
New Member
Posts: 39
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Post by kyle on Jan 16, 2024 20:28:29 GMT
So I observed the "get neg temp" part of test, TMP went up as high as 270, then after that, it went to "neg flow on" and the TMP dropped to 250 before going to the next part of the test. and it still failed- negative flow on. Next is I changed the air separator then put it again to test, it failed again but this time it said negative stabilize on the fail.
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Post by Fresniusguy on Jan 22, 2024 5:17:40 GMT
Hey Kyle. I’d recommend following Dave advice. When I was a new BioMed and even one now his recommendations help. Your problem if your pressures are okay. I’d try brand new dear motor and head before this. But last time I failed this. I couldn’t figure it out and it was my balancing chamber.
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Post by gnurk on Jan 22, 2024 13:24:30 GMT
get your machine up and running turn on your uf pump to get tmp of at least 400 use a flashlight and look for air bubbles if ok then disconnect your brown and blue wires on your air separator clamp off v43 and let run for 15 minutes and check for leaks
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eric
Full Member
Posts: 111
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Post by eric on Jan 22, 2024 14:45:45 GMT
When there is an issue with pressure test, i use the "old school"(as i am told) method. 1. Get your machine up and set to run the pressure test, or be ready to do some observations when doing both tests. 2. When conductivity test ends and negative pressure test starts you want to observe your home screen 3. watch your tmp, the first part of the test will attempt to get your machine to -250ish(get neg tmp), if it does not then there is a motor/wet end/flow/pressure transducer issue 4. the next step is Test: Neg flow on, watch your tmp, does it drop 30 or more? if yes, then this is a leak sucking into the tubing, i hate these with a passion Hello, what do you mean when u said leak sucking into tubing? a tubing that is not secured? What hes saying here kyle is that there is air being sucked into the tubing somewhere. A reverse leak if you like. Hope this helps. Eric |
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Post by NYHQCTech on Jan 25, 2024 20:14:11 GMT
Simple question, but sometimes simple fix, have you changed the diasafe filter?
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