Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2021 15:35:12 GMT
Since we are starting over, I used to go to this post all the time, hopefully others will find it useful:
OLC Failed - Debug Screen 6
1. Timed out high conductivity (calibrate conductivity cells and temperature)
2. Timed out low conductivity (calibrate conductivity cells and temperature)
3. Unstable blood flow
4. Unstable dialysate flow (check brushes, calibrate motors, leaking pressure regulators, all else fails CFS)
5. OLC disabled
6. Dialysate Flow off
7. Alarm Test
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2021 19:55:17 GMT
I am reposting this from RenalWeb in hopes that it can help someone that is interested in changing out the keyboard in a different manner than Fresenius details in the instructions that come with the keyboard. Much easier and quicker for me. Guys don't try to reinvent the wheel when changing out the keyboard. There is zero reason to lay down the screen. 1. Disconnect the grounding wire (if applicable) and the keyboard wire that is plugged into the UI/MICS board 2. Remove power logic board. 3. Initially "break/loosen" the screw that is blocked behind the power logic board post with a ratcheting offset screwdriver (see link below). 4. Use a slim phillips screwdriver to continue backing that same screw out until loose but leave it in place. 5. Loosen and back out the second screw holding in the keyboard and back it out all the way but leave it in place. 6. Remove the keyboard. 7. Install the new keyboard screwing in the outside screw in first but not tightening all the way. 8. Use a slim phillips screwdriver to screw in the inside screw in place as much as it will allow and finish tightening with your ratcheting offset screwdriver. 9. Finish tightening the outside screw. 10. Attach grounding wire (if applicable) and cable that attaches to the UI/MICS board. 11. Re-install the power logic board and cables. 12. Turn machine on and enter SERVICE MODE to test keys. I can do this in 7 minutes. Offset ratcheting screwdriver link: www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/screwdriver-sets/26297
|
|
pacnw
Full Member
Posts: 187
|
Post by pacnw on Jun 30, 2021 16:13:08 GMT
Anyone who has done the upgrades knows you will see new alarms. Thought i'd post a couple of them and the fixes to the issues. One is SYSTEM LEAK. This one happens once the HE Leak test is enabled as required by policy... It's an easy fix. Check your inlet pressure regulator first. If the regulator is high or low this could be your failure. Once you set the pressure be sure to check the pressure with the machine OFF. Watch your pressure gauge after turning the machine off. If it starts to build pressure this is your problem. Rebuild your regulator. Check it again and see if the pressure builds... If not you're good to go. If both are stable and in range it's your heat exchanger itself.
We have also found an error that looks like a clogged diasafe. High Flow, Low Flow, TMP and condo problems. If you see this its your pressure transducer. Order in the newest version part number 370506-22. This is REV K. This will correct the problem.
|
|
|
Post by Guesst on Jun 30, 2021 17:22:14 GMT
Another one found is if machine is setup with saline in the lines, the machine will start testing automatically even though the temperature and conductivity are not within limits, causing the machine to fail tests
|
|
|
Post by t1spike on Jul 2, 2021 20:02:59 GMT
just a tip I learned from RENAL web along time ago ,if your clock stops or keeps resetting chances are its the battery on the function board part# 362637-07 if you don't change it in time will cause all kinds of funky problems ,so now if I am suspecting a problem with function board first thing I do is look at clock .
|
|
|
Post by Breakfast on Jul 7, 2021 19:19:52 GMT
I don't need help, but the first time I saw this a couple of months ago I was stumped until I found the answer on Renalweb. I know we're trying to build up the number of helpful posts so figured I'd post this since someone might eventually search this topic. I also had it happen to me yesterday which made me think to post here.
If your loading screen stops at 15% and won't go any farther, it's most likely your battery RAM (the yellow chip on the function board). I went years without seeing this and suddenly I've had three this year, two of them just this week. Same clinic, K2 machines with around 32-35K hours.
If anyone else has seen this problem and it's been caused by something different, feel free to add to this thread.
|
|
|
Post by briancanufixthis on Jul 15, 2021 13:09:31 GMT
So you need to put the machine through Rinse to clear the errors right? But who wants to wait 15 minutes?? Not me!! Put machine into service mode, turn it off and back on. Put into service mode again and presto!! Now you can set rinse time to 1 minute and not waste your whole day. I would have put this in the Tips and Tricks thread but somebody felt the need to lock it.
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Weddle on Feb 25, 2022 13:49:26 GMT
Posted by "Rocket"
Feb 24, 2022 12:17:57 GMT -5 Rocket said:
I'm not necessarily saying the membranes are the issue in your situation because I have also had an issue with the flow motors having an excess of brush dust causing this to happen to, but most of the time now if a machine is only failing OLC with a patent I'm going to try to rule out the membranes first, as it's been the vast majority of my OLC issues lately.
The only way I caught the last membrane issue was as the condo was starting to go up, the pre condo cell would start reading after 10 and the post would read slightly higher for a split second then fluctuate up and down by a few decimal points above and below the post. That shouldn't happen. Once it was all the way up in condo you couldn't tell. I agree with you about the amount of fluid and consistency test the troubleshooting guide has you do, but as I mentioned before that doesn't always work to fully rule out a membrane issue.
Another way to help rule out a membrane is try to do a conductivity calibration in service mode and see if it lets you. One time I caught a bad membrane trying to recalibrate a slightly low condo issue and it never let me. The box to manually adjust the condo number to match my meter never turned from gray. I think it ended up saying "user error". That's when I realized it was the membranes.
I've changed so many over the last two years that I can do a full membrane swop and test with a rinse in under 20 minutes. There are ways you can remove the membranes quickly without removing the entire assembly. If you have a cart that can elevate it's way easier.
How to Quickly replace the membranes:
Remove the hydraulics and put them on the cart, elevate the cart and remove the nuts on the back of the membrane. Now remove the last four long bolts and the membrane will split. You can take a set of needle nose pliers and remove the membranes. Roll the new membranes up into a tube shape and put them in place using a small screwdriver to unroll them into place. Now carefully lay the hydraulics down on its face so the back of the hydraulics are now facing up. Realign the membranes so they are in place (this can be tricky but take your time and make sure they are in place correctly, or it will leak). Gently put the long bolts back in and realign the balancing chamber into place and tighten all four bolts just under hand tight. Flip the hydraulics back upright and put the nuts back on and tighten all the bolts and nuts. Now test the membrane for leaks by doing a rinse.
|
|
jtech
New Member
Posts: 44
|
Post by jtech on Jul 26, 2022 18:01:14 GMT
I had a Blue Star machine with about 8k hours that started failing level Det, Blood leak, Arterial, Venous, and TMP. I tried the usual reseating boards and making sure everything was calibrated. Nothing helped, I decided to change a board or 2. Wound up changing sensor, actuator, function, and even power logic just to make sure and nothing helped. By this time I was ready to burn it, but I didn't wanna give in and call tech support just yet, so I changed the mother board just to make it complete, still failing same tests....so, I gave in and called tech support.....and I couldn't believe what he told me, changed out the LP955 board and low and behold, it worked! Apparently if the board doesn't send a signal letting the machine know when the pump starts and stops each time, it will not pass that specific test. I had never ran into this problem before. Hopefully this will help someone out in the future
|
|
|
Post by El_Bio-medico on Apr 27, 2023 20:34:09 GMT
2008T 40K+ hours...I've had a few machines with 24V and following WD: Long Pause Fail...my fix has been Power Control board. following all troubleshooting guide steps of course. hope this helps someone. so far, no other boards including power logic board and motherboard have solved the issue. look for shorted/ burnt wires on the board that you will probably find.
good luck
-El_Bio-medico
|
|
pacnw
Full Member
Posts: 187
|
Post by pacnw on Sept 5, 2023 19:02:51 GMT
Troubleshooting Flow Errors
1. CHECK Loading pressure. Good pressure means the error is on the secondary side, Bad pressure it’s on the primary side. Always start with this. Read your pressures while the error is present. If intermittent wait for the issue to show then read the pressure.
2. Check valve 101 if Bibag
3. Unplug #6 and put a temperature resistor into the place so you are checking valves 43 and 30. Flow to drain if good. No flow valve 30 or 43 are bad
4. Open shunt door to check valve 24 and 25. If the error goes away it’s valve 26, if it stays you have cleared all three valves.
5. check drain flow
6 check conductivity= if condo high= stuck closed BC valve
Stuck closed BC Valve troubleshooting from Select Program Screen
Plug valve 35 into V30’s spot and check flow at red Hansen hose. If no flow loosen BC valve 31 from the B/C. If you have dialysate coming out of the valve, 31 is the bad valve. No flow it’s valve 35
Plug Valve 37 into V30’s spot and check flow at the red Hansen. If no flow loosen BC valve 33. If you have dialysate coming out of the valve, 33 is the bad valve. No flow it’s valve 37.
Flow should be the same or 800 ml a minute
7. Check TMP troubleshooting from Select Program Screen
High TMP=top of the screen(negative) = stuck open BC valve on spent side
Low TMP = Bottom of screen or Positive= stuck open BC Valve on fresh side
If you suspect a leaking BC Valve then run the leak test. Rinse machine before running test
Spent side checks
1. Put dialysate connectors into a bucket of water.
2. Plug flow pump into deaer spot
3. Plug valve 36 into Valve 33 check flow rate at end of drain hose. No flow… loosen valve 32 from the top of the balance chamber. No flow shows valve 36 is bad. Flow shows valve 32 is bad.
4. Plug valve 38 into valve 33 check flow rate at the drain No flow… loosen valve 34 from the top of the balance chamber. No flow shows valve 38 is bad. Flow shows valve 34 is bad.
5. Should be equal amounts
Whats left to check is Diasafe and CFS switch
|
|
|
Post by dave74 on Nov 27, 2023 6:17:22 GMT
Calibrating temperature with bibag.
When calibrating temperature on a Bibag machine, plug your acid into your jug or wall port and leave your bicarb in the port on the front of the machine. Bibag machines, when using the bag, use tempered water to make the bicarb, and because of this, your temp dac values will need to change to reflect it. Your temp DAC value will drop and your temperatures will come back in line to where they are suppose to be.... Some people will say it doesn't matter but let me tell you the DAC values will drop 6-10 points.
From pacnw and ThereAreSomeWhoCallMeTim
|
|
|
Post by dave74 on Mar 28, 2024 17:58:53 GMT
Chairside and Newer Mics Board
Tech support is saying there are issues with installing the new chairside on newer mics boards. They updated the guide and recommend installing 6.16 first then 6.17.
I have older T machines with generation 1 boards. So the chairside software is the older version 6.06.2 So since the new board had changed to the generation 3 version 6.06.2 will not work. I called IT and they mailed me a flash drive with the newest software 6.16.137. Once I installed the new version there was no other issues. So if you are replacing a 1st generation board with the new gen 3 board make sure you use the software 6.16.137.
|
|