|
|
Post by Chuck Weddle on Mar 19, 2022 10:58:15 GMT
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for rebuilding Fleck 2850's?
Even with the stuffer tool (from Marcor) we have a helluva time getting the seals and spacers properly seated.
A few years ago I was at the NANT symposium and part of one of the sessions, a guy from Marcor showed an EASY way to do it. I really want to stress the EASY part because in a matter of 2-3 minutes the old seals and spacers were out and the new ones installed. It was so simple that I didn't bother taking notes. What I didn't factor in was my crappy memory.
The only thing I really remember is that he used 2 pieces of PVC pipe, one inside the other. I believe they were 1" and 1-1/4". Other than that, I've got nothing!
Does anyone know what I'm talking about or have any other tips?
|
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 19, 2022 15:17:53 GMT
We have the stuffed tool but I’ve never heard of the pipe trick. I’d love to learn that!
|
|
lost
Junior Member
Posts: 81
|
Post by lost on Mar 21, 2022 22:36:08 GMT
I like to use the Plastic spacers you can get from Marcor over the metal alternatives. The brittleness of the metallic spacers at end of life are a pain in the butt and can be much harder to get out.
The 2x PVC trick works well for putting the spacers/seals in. It really does.
I also make sure that everything is really nice and lubed going back in. This helps with installation and later on with removal.
I even put a little around the actual piston. Your motor will thank you in the long run.
*Side tip* If you have a 2850 on your water softener and you are having a constant flow to the brine tank, it will most likely be that the valve on the brine assembly is not closing properly. This segment is OPEN to the 2850 head during normal operation and if the valve in the brine assembly does not shut it will create a constant run off to your brine tank. Rebuild or replace the brine valve assembly.
|
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 22, 2022 1:30:42 GMT
Lost - how does the PVC trick work?
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Weddle on Mar 22, 2022 8:31:55 GMT
I like to use the Plastic spacers you can get from Marcor over the metal alternatives. The brittleness of the metallic spacers at end of life are a pain in the butt and can be much harder to get out. The 2x PVC trick works well for putting the spacers/seals in. It really does. I also make sure that everything is really nice and lubed going back in. This helps with installation and later on with removal. I even put a little around the actual piston. Your motor will thank you in the long run. *Side tip* If you have a 2850 on your water softener and you are having a constant flow to the brine tank, it will most likely be that the valve on the brine assembly is not closing properly. This segment is OPEN to the 2850 head during normal operation and if the valve in the brine assembly does not shut it will create a constant run off to your brine tank. Rebuild or replace the brine valve assembly. lost, Is there anyway you could do step by step instructions with pictures on doing a rebuild with the PVC? I would like to make a sticky post for it because I think quite a few people would find it useful. You may need to email me the pictures because of file size limitations on the forum. |
|
|
|
Post by IRemember? on Mar 22, 2022 19:56:22 GMT
I had one of the MarCor guys showed me awhile ago but this is what I remember. You need to have the seal stuffer tool and 1" PVC.
With the stuffer tool, the silver end should be facing out. You line up all the seals and o-rings in order on the other end. You lube everything up nicely when setting them on the tool. Now you use the PVC to push the tool with the o-rings and seal into the fleckhead. Everything is in the proper place when only, I repeat, only the silver end is lined up and facing out of the fleckhead.
I hope that helps some, that's what I can recall. I should've recorded it on my phone.
|
|
|
|
Post by robertb on Mar 23, 2022 14:22:14 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Weddle on Mar 23, 2022 14:26:16 GMT
So, I'm guessing you put the seals and spacers on the 1" up against the coupling then push them all in to position? |
|
|
|
Post by qman213 on Mar 25, 2022 11:59:34 GMT
That's brilliant and yet so simple.
|
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 28, 2022 17:02:40 GMT
Can someone post the picture? Blocked at work. Womp.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Weddle on Mar 28, 2022 18:03:52 GMT
Can someone post the picture? Blocked at work. Womp. Google doesn't make it easy.....  |
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 29, 2022 13:00:52 GMT
That's interesting!
|
|
|
|
Post by robertb on Mar 29, 2022 17:26:40 GMT
I've also seen biomeds at the big F'ers use them Waterchek residual chlorine bottles instead of pvc pipe i think any 1½" round bottle/contraption would work
|
|
|
|
Post by briancanufixthis on Feb 4, 2023 14:54:38 GMT
It shouldnt take you long to do if you have the right tools!
|
|
|
|
Post by alabamawaterguy on Nov 5, 2023 19:32:11 GMT
Mar Cor tech here. Never had any sort of problem with the head rebuilds provided I had the stuffer tool. Place a seal, well lubed, then a spacer, and ram them both home with the retracted stuffer tool. Repeat ad nauseam until all seals and spacers are placed. Give yourself a nice bead of lube around the piston, ram it home, get everything bolted back together and reattached (reconnecting the piston to the motor with that pin is the hardest thing for me to line up lol, but it’s never slowed me down too much) and done.
|
|
